how do I care for the flower of a bromeliad?
inflorescence best answer:
Answer by Revelation Man
Most of the bromeliads that people grow only bloom a single time. As the plants grow by adding new leaves from the center, it becomes impossible to continue growth after flowering since the inflorescence blocks new leaf growth. The plants direct their energy into growing new vegetative offsets (pups) from growing buds at the base of the leaves. Some species of Dyckia and Hechtia grow lateral inflorescences (from the side rather then the center of the plant). These plants a free to add leaves from the center of original plant continuing its growth (they also pup freely). Some plants in the uncommonly grown genus Deuterocohnia can actually re-bloom on an existing inflorescence. Some can bloom for up to six years on one of these perennial flower spikes.
Bromeliads that have a rosette of overlapping leaves that retain water (often called "tank bromeliads") should have the rosette kept full of water. Distilled water or rainwater is generally better than tap water (especially if you have hard water). It is a good idea to empty or flush the tank every couple of months and refill it with fresh water. This will clear out organic debris and lessen any chance of fungal rot. In nature, these plants have evolved to catch organic matter, which rots, fertilizing the plants. In cultivation, growers like to keep their plants tidy and debris-free and supplement them with fertilizer to make up for the nutritional loss. Keep the soil around the bromeliad moist (but not wet). This is especially important for non tank bromeliads as they draw their moisture primarily from their roots.
For "air plants" like Tillandsias which are grown attached to a piece of wood, cork or sometimes nothing at all, they should be misted a couple of times a week and even more frequently during the dry winter season when grown indoors. As an alternative to misting, plants grown indoors may be dunked or soaked in water for a few minutes to rehydrate the plant. Make sure to drain away any excess water caught between the leaves as this may promote rot.
That depends a lot on the type of bromeliad. Knowing the genus that the plant belongs to within the bromeliad family can tell you a lot about its requirements. A simple rule of thumb that works for most cases is: "Soft leaf - soft light, hard leaf - hard light." If the leaves of your plant are soft and flexible and especially if they are spineless (like Guzmanias and Vrieseas), they probably grow in the shady understory in the wild and would do best in a lower light area. Those plants with stiffer (usually spiny) leaves (like Aechmeas and Neoregelias) or "airplants" like Tillandsias enjoy bright, filtered light. There are some plants that will tolerate full sun but most like a little protection.
Pay attention to your plants and they will tell you if they are unhappy. If a plant is being grown in too little light, it will often lose the bright colors that it had when you bought it. In addition to turning greener (adding chlorophyll) to make the most of the lower light level, many plants will start growing much longer leaves increasing their surface area to compensate. If your plant starts getting "leggy", try moving it (gradually) to a brighter area. The plant will respond by regaining its color and "tightening up" to form a dense rosette with shorter leaves.
On the other extreme, too much light can be the culprit if the plant's color starts fading or "bleaching". If brown, sunburned spots start appearing on the portions of the leaves, it is a clear indication that the plant is getting too much light. Sometimes a plant that should be able to take more light fades or burns when placed in a sunny area. The plant might have been living in dimly lit conditions before you obtained it. You can work it out into brighter conditions in stages to acclimate the plant.
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